Acclimatization in Ala-Archa

  • Destination: Ala-Archa, Kyrgyzstan
  • Duration: 2 days
  • Price: $325

Ala Archa is a national park situated just 40 km from Bishkek on the Northern slope of Kyrgyz Range. Elevation level: from 1600m till 4875m (peak of Semenov Tien Shanski, the highest point of Kyrgyz Range) . The National Park was founded in 1976. It has been popular for active rest since 1951. The most popular direction is Ak Sai glacier. The region is popular for climbing during the whole year; there are about 150 of different climbing routs. It is possible to find walls for climbing up to 1100m. It will take you about 1 hour by car to get there from Bishkek. You can climb difficult technical routs and easy mountains where you do not need to use any climbing technique.

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Ratsek hut (3330 m)
It will take you about 4 hours to get there from alpinist camp after you will leave the car. You can spend the night in the hut (need to book accommodation before your arrival) or to spend the night in your tent. From here you will start your climbing program. As an option it is possible to do ice climbing or rock climbing at the first day.
Uchitel Peak (4530 m, 1B)
The best option to start your acclimatization program with this peak. This mountain is known as the highest 1B category summit of former USSR. On the way to the top you do not need to use any technical climbing. It is just steep way up.
Peak Boks (4293 m)
Ascent will take the full day from Ratseka mountain hut. The trail will lead you through Ak Sai glacier. And continues to Teke-Tor pass, which affords fantastic views of beautiful rocks and breathtaking altitude. From the summit opens panoramic view to Korona peak and all other summits. There are several routs to peak Boks with different levels of difficulty from 1 B to 5 B.
Peak Korona (4860m)
One of the most beautiful and famous summits of Kyrgyz range with its 6 towers. It is possible to see the summit from the trail to Ratseka hut. A wonderful view opens during the sun set from Ak Sai glacier to Korona peak. There is a small hut under northern walls of Korona peak, so you have a chance before going back to Ratsik hut.

There are many other peaks in Ala Archa canyon that you can climb with our professional guides. Almost all climbing programs we start from Alpinist camp in Ala Archa. Alpinist camp is located in the fur tree forest at the altitude of 2100 m asl. The camp appeared here in 1951 and it was organized as a campground. Ala Archa camp has been well known among climbers all over the Soviet Union. Many climbers that became famous today have started their first ascents here. Alpinist camp is situated not far away from the well known Ak Sai glacier. There are many summits with different routs of different difficulty categories in the circus of Ak Sai glacier. Routs are interesting both for beginners and professional and experienced climbers.

The second place that we recommend you to visit in Ala Archa is Adygene valley. The way starts from steep ascent, trail leads through the larch forest. Many years ago at the Northern slope there was organized a memorial cemetery for climbers. At this place you may honor the memory of the people who once left their hearts in the mountains. On the way to the cemetery you may see snow white peaks of Ak Sai circus: Korona peak 4860 m, Teke Tor peak 4480 m and Semenov-Tien Shansky peak 4875 m. If to get deeper to the valley in one day you may get to the beautiful mountainous lake Adygene surrounded by glaciers. If to take a tent and spend one night at the foothill of Adygene pass the next day you can climb Adygene peak 4393 m (1B). If you do not have much time for climbing but you would like to see the area of Ala Archa national park there are many options for one day hikes. And one of them is a trip to the waterfall called Ak Sai. On the way a wonderful view to the peaks that are higher then 4000 m asl is opened. You will be impressed by the wonderful scenery of the gorge.

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